Benriach Distillery, near Elgin, is a short walk from its sister distillery, Longmorn. The distillery was constructed in 1898 at the height of the Victorian whisky boom but soon fell silent, not resuming production again until 1965. This vibrant Speysider has spent the last two years of its life in a sweet ex- Pedro Ximénez butt, giving a spicy nose full of sticky gingerbread, clove rockn and liquorice. A little water coaxes out some juicy pear notes and a touch of underripe mango. The palate is a touch drying at full strength, offering
ginger, pepper and sweet plum wine. A little time and dilution show a more complex dram, with layers of fruit, spice and a touch of oak. This is a vigorous whisky perfect for enjoying after dinner alongside dessert.